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Review - Denso 234-4206 Universal Oxygen sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

• Manufactured to the highest O.E. quality, guaranteed to fit right
• Aluminum oxide trap, this extra layer helps to protect from silicone and lead poisoning
• Stainless steel housing and porous Teflon filter all contribute to make a long life
• Improved engine performance and greater fuel efficiency
• Prevents premature sensor failure

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Review - Denso 234-9010 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

• Manufactured to detect the amount of exhaust gas air fuel ratio
• Constructed from durable material
• Features zirconia solid electrolyte
• Highly accurate
• Easy installation

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Vent Free Heaters or flueless heaters are those units that do not require a vent, chimney or flue to discard the elements produced by burning fuels. These units offer complete combustion of fuels (propane or natural gas) and all the usable heat energy produced by the process goes into the space. Thus, wasting no heat through vent to the outside atmosphere. Whatever little amount of carbon dioxide, water or other such elements is produced after combustion is considered natural and non-toxic, as that much content should be there in the air. However, these units need proper installation and maintenance to perform perfectly at your place.

Gas Ventless Heaters are 99.9 per cent energy efficient, as they heat only those areas of your home that you want to keep warm and relaxing for a long duration, thus, reducing the cost of your energy bills. Being energy efficient, these environmental friendly units are affordable and can be a good long term investment for those living in colder regions.

Since, these unvented units supply heat wherever and whenever you need it, this allows them to be used in areas that have low central heating demands. Areas such as living room, kitchens, dining rooms, bathrooms, etc. can be equipped with these units. In fact, these units can also be placed in spaces that are hard to heat like basements, porches, dorms, etc. for better ambiance. Billions of people all around the globe are enjoying the benefits of heating their living spaces with vent-free gas heaters.

A number of heating appliance manufacturers produce a remarkable and affordable line of Vent Free Heaters. Procom is one such manufacturer that offers its customers an impressive range of right supplemental heating solutions. The US based company uses innovative designs and ground breaking technology to produce wonderful heating products that add simplicity, comfort and beauty to life. Procom manufactures its heating products keeping in mind the customers' demand and delivers unbeatable value, continuous innovation, exceptional quality and outstanding service.

Procom Ventfree Gas Heaters are one of its most impressive innovations. These heating units come with advanced features like a diamond mesh grill for ultimate safety and built-in safety Oxygen Depletion Sensor. Most of these units possess patented dual fuel technology that allows one unit to operate on either natural gas or propane fuel.

Most people climb into their car each morning, start it up and drive away. As long as the vehicle starts and sounds alright, we don't consider the small details about the different systems that make up the entire car. However, the moment something begins to sound funny or act funny we become more interested in those minor details and parts.

The one system that makes the most noise when it malfunctions is the exhaust system. When this system develops a hole or other problem with it, the noise can't be ignored. However, it can also be a more subtle issue. A damaged exhaust system will interfere with the car's performance by failing to get rid of the harmful elements from the engine. Exhaust that can't get away can release carcinogens into the atmosphere and even post a health threat if not found soon enough.

Vehicle exhaust systems carry away the gases that are created when the fuel and air are burned in the combustion chamber. These gases are harmful to humans and our environment thus the laws regarding emissions in highly populated areas. In larger cities all the traffic means a higher concentration of these harmful gases are released into the air every single day. It is in the best interest of everyone living and working in these areas to have every vehicle be performing at peak levels without having a high emission rating. That might be why in many larger cities we don't see very many really old worn out vehicles, they can't pass an emissions test.

The exhaust system is made up of many different parts and each one has a specific job to do but they also have different ways they can go bad. The worst problem for the entire system though is corrosion or rust. Rust is caused by moisture reacting with the iron in the steel forming iron oxide. Moisture is present in the exhaust as a by-product of combustion and the catalytic converter. It can also come from the outside elements and conditions of rain and snow. If you notice a car idling during the winter usually you will see little drips of moisture dripping off the end of the exhaust pipe. Over time, rust can eat a hole in the exhaust system causing it to be much less efficient and much noisier too. This is because rust weakens the spot welds that hold the heat shields to the exhaust system. When the weld fails, the shield comes loose just enough to vibrate and produce a rattle or buzz that reverberates throughout the entire vehicle. The noise may only be heard at certain engine rpms or when slowing down. If you live in an area which uses salt on the roadways during the winter time, it is vitally important to wash the underside of the car with water every few weeks to rinse off the salt. Salt speeds up the corrosion process. It is also important to run the engine after washing to dry all the water off the outside of the pipes.

Rust isn't the only problem that can bring about serious issues with your exhaust system. If a vehicle has been getting poor fuel economy or has a loss of power, the exhaust system might have an internal restriction or blockage. These restrictions can be caused by damaged or crushed pipes, or collapsed baffles inside a muffler. However, the most common cause often turns out to be a plugged catalytic converter. The catalytic converter converts harmful carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons to water vapor and carbon dioxide and is mounted between the exhaust manifold and the muffler. If you take the converter off and look into it with a bright light, you should be able to see all the way through it, if you can't then it is plugged and needs replacing.

The muffler does just what its name indicates; it muffles the exhaust noise down to acceptable levels. Most of the time mufflers rust through and need to be replaced. They also can become loosely attached; you know the sound of the muffler bouncing off the curb you just drove over. Then there is the sound of leaving the muffler behind entirely, the engine noise gets so loud you can't hear yourself think. Muffler's come in a variety of costs, some legitimate parts and some aftermarket. Very definitely with the mufflers, buying the cheapest one out there also buys the least amount of time between muffler repairs and problems. If you do have to replace the muffler, be sure you check the pipes around it and make sure they are in good condition. Pipes can appear to be fine on the outside and be rusting away on the inside so be sure to check both out and inside of pipes.

All modern fuel injected vehicles use an oxygen sensor to measure how much oxygen is present in the exhaust. From this the computer can add or subtract fuel to obtain the correct mixture for maximum fuel economy. This little sensor can also be the cause of a persistent check engine light. While it is small it can cause a few problems with the overall performance of the vehicle.

The main component of the entire exhaust system that links all the parts together is the exhaust pipe. This pipe carries the gas through its journey out your tail pipe. Exhaust tubing is usually made of steel but can also be stainless steel that actually lasts longer because it resists corrosion. It can even be aluminized steel which has a little better corrosion resistance than regular steel but not quite as good as the stainless steel has, but it is cheaper than stainless. These pipes should be tested by using a large pair of expandable pliers. The pliers will tell if the pipes are rotten or solid. If the pipe gives in when pressure is applied, it obviously needs replaced. Poking at rusted areas on the different areas of the entire system will also tell you if the corrosion is on the surface or if it goes all the way through the metal.

From the engine to the tail pipe there are lots of important areas that should be looked at once in a while. We sort of take our vehicles for granted and just make sure to add gasoline when necessary and occasionally make sure the oil level is ok. Other than that it's just a bunch of details. But details are important too. Especially details that either improve or lower gas mileage and even details that make the air we breathe dangerous. We need to be aware that the exhaust system is one such detail; it needs some attention once in a while. It is possible to give it a quick look see ourselves, but for a more thorough inspection we can take it to the local auto repair center and have them look it over. It is easier for the professionals to look under there because they can lift the car off the ground. All the "do-it-yourself" people have to crawl under the car and see what they can see. As vehicles age things begin to take on a less than shiny appearance. It is important to know which things need attention and which things might be best off replaced.

It is also very important to note that even a small exhaust leak that causes exhaust gases to get inside the vehicle can affect a driver's judgment and perception. As little as 0.08 percent carbon monoxide (that's only 800 parts per million) can cause dizziness, headaches, nausea, and bring on stupor in two hours. A one percent concentration level of carbon monoxide can kill a person in less than three minutes. Carbon monoxide isn't only found in your basement, it is part of your vehicles exhaust. Frequent check of your exhaust system is a must to ensure you and your family's safety.

All in that entire vehicle on four wheels can get you where you are going, but it needs maintenance too. Regular maintenance can help prevent major problems down the road. To help guarantee that your vehicle starts every morning and every evening and gets you safely to each destination, take a few moments to make sure it is in good condition from the engine to the tail pipe. It's all in the details.

Why install a HHO generator?

If you have already done your research on HHO generators then you known what these hydrogen on demand systems are designed to do.

If not, here it is in a nutshell.

These HHO generators are an Electrolyzer unit that run off the battery of your car that convert water into Brown's Gas or what has been termed H-H-O (Hydrogen - Hydrogen - Oxygen) through very simple electrolysis. This HHO gas when induced into your air fuel mix and burned together with gasoline or diesel fuel in the internal combustion engine causes better combustion. Better combustion of the fuel already there will increase the gas mileage significantly.

It gets even better. Another thing the HHO gas mixed with your regular fuel does is decrease the amount of harmful emissions put out by your vehicle. This is because unfortunately for many years the ICE engine in your has not improved much and is very inefficient.

This is not just someones pipe dream ideas the Government has been testing HHO gas injection for a long time and the published documents from 1996, 2003, 2007 all prove this simple technology works.

How do I set up this HHO generator kit for my car?

The whole setup, which has been termed a Hydrogen on Demand system consists of a water reservoir, ( with the HHO dry cell design ) an electrolyzer also known as the HHO generator, some tubing, a few feet of wire and a couple of automotive electrical parts.

After you have all the parts required to install your hydrogen on demand system, you find an appropriate place under the hood to fit the hydrogen generator install tubing to your carburetor or throttle body, install wiring and viola! No external power source is needed as you just need to power it with your car battery.

Parts needed for a Hydrogen on Demand system:

1. Electrolyzer - the HHO Generator

2. HHO Generator Wiring Harness

3. Tubing for Water Charging

4. Vacuum Hose HHO gas feed

Other Optional HHO Parts:

1. The Optimizer commonly called dual edge map sensor enhancer

2. The Optimizer for O2 sensor commonly called EFIE - Electronic Fuel Injector Enhancer

Thousands of drivers have installed Hydrogen on Demand on their vehicles and are enjoying the savings.

There are few different ways you could get your HHO generator kit installed and start saving loads of money.

I would not recommend buying one of those "guides" on how to build a Hydrogen on demand system. For what you pay for the reading material you can actually buy the HHO dry cell DIY kit and build your own HHO generator, it really is very easy.

1. You can buy only the HHO generator, we highly recommend the HHO dry cell, and round up the rest of the parts needed to complete your hydrogen on demand system.

2. You can also buy a complete HHO dry cell kit from a reliable source and simply install it according to easy to follow instruction.

For a couple hundred dollars you too could have your Complete HHO Dry Cell System up and running.

Even if you owned a million dollar townhouse in Boston's Back Bay, there just isn't enough room on a 25' x 100' lot for a townhouse, small deck, a couple of parking spaces AND a closed loop geothermal heating system.

However, a roof top solar system for hot water would be doable if you could get the idea past the Historical Preservation groups.

If you live in high humidity Alabama, the environmentally friendly swamp cooler will never be a viable substitute for more expensive air conditioning.

Only when you narrow down the choices for alternative heating based on where you live, can you begin to focus your time and energy on the most relevant, cost effective heating solution.

Urban Alternative Heating
Geothermal, outdoor furnaces and most wind power are not suitable for urban or small-lot suburban homes. Except for very small wind turbines (i.e., with rotors one meter or less in diameter) on very small towers, a property size of one acre or more is desirable.

Wood burning stoves have been used in urban areas for as long as I can remember. I bought my first air tight stove in 1976. Corn and wood pellet stoves are quickly gaining acceptance as new installations or replacements for existing wood stoves.

One Connecticut pellet stove dealer I spoke with said he sold so many wood pellet and corn stoves last winter he was forced to temporarily close one of his two stores for lack of product.

An adaptation of the wood or pellet stove is the fully vented fireplace insert. They are comparably priced to freestanding stoves and offer a simple way to turn an otherwise inefficient fireplace into a source of heat for multiple rooms.

Unvented gas log fireplaces or propane space heaters are less expensive to purchase and install but are controversial with respect to health risks and are prohibited in some localities. Make sure the unit you purchase has an ODS (Oxygen Depletion Sensor). This safety device turns off the heater when the oxygen in the room drops below 18%. (Normal is around 21%)

Decorative gel fireplaces are nice to look at, but aren't considered legitimate heating devices.

Electric and hydronic (hot water) radiant heat are extremely versatile and can be installed anywhere. The hydronic application of radiant heat can be fueled by anything from corn to gas and can be adapted to heat driveways, hot tubs and of course, your home.

Solar for hot water is on the rise in urban areas. A neighbor of mine in the Port Norfolk section of Boston recently installed a solar array on the roof of his two family home. His contractor did a first rate job and it doesn't detract from the visual appeal of his house at all. He also says his hot water bill now costs him "chump change".

Let's not forget the lowly space heater. For many homeowners who spend most of their time in only one room of an eight room house, an inexpensive space heater is often the first choice to supplement their conventional heating system.

Suburban Alternative Heating
Suburban lot sizes can run anywhere from ¼ of an acre to three acres. But even a quarter acre lot opens up the possibility of a vertical closed loop geothermal system.

A three acre lot will afford you the space to install a slightly less expensive horizontal closed loop geothermal system, a wind turbine or even an outdoor wood, pellet or corn furnace.

At approximately 00, the outdoor furnace is your least expensive option. A quality 1,800 watt wind turbine and tower can be purchased for ,000. If geothermal is your system of choice, a new, 3,000 sq. ft. home can be heated and cooled for around ,000.

If you partner with a program such as Energy Crafted Home in Connecticut, it's possible to receive a rebate of 3 per ton of geothermal heating/cooling capacity. For the 3,000 sq. ft. home just mentioned, it would mean a rebate totaling ,971.

Although wind, geothermal and outdoor furnace systems are more expensive than the typical 00 wood pellet stove, they are very efficient and pay for themselves in only a few years.

The increasingly popular manufactured home is a growing segment of the suburban real estate market, and fire safety codes are very specific as to what you can use to heat your home.

Check with your local building department to find out exactly which alternative heating appliances are permitted before you start shopping for the best deal.

Rural Alternative Heating
Just as the sky and landscape open up in rural America, so do opportunities for alternative heating.

With so much room to work with you could design a CHP (Combined Heat and Power Unit).

An obvious choice for homeowners in the Corn Belt would be an outdoor corn furnace for heat and hot water. Couple this with a low maintenance wind turbine for electricity and it's possible to achieve a 70%+ reduction in energy costs when compared to fuel oil.

If your property includes a shallow pond or lake, a closed loop geothermal system will heat and cool your home for the cost of electricity to operate a heat pump.

The choices for alternative heating are plentiful no matter where you live. It's just a matter of knowing where you fit in.

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Review - 01 02 Denso Oxygen Sensor Honda 36531paa306 2349014 13512 Accord Dx Ex Lx Se L4 2.3


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Review - Denso 234-4620 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

• Designed to detect the amount of oxygen in the exhaust system
• Constructed from high quality material
• Features double protection layer, aluminum oxide trap layer, PTFE filter and stainless steel housing
• Manufactured with precision to meet OE standards
• Easy installation

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Review - Denso 234-9002 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

• Manufactured to detect the amount of exhaust gas air fuel ratio
• Constructed from durable material
• Features zirconia solid electrolyte
• Highly accurate
• Easy installation

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Every single year fires kill 5000 people, injure countless others and cost business over 10 billion dollars. The best way to fight fires is to prevent them from starting in the first place but once they do there a various lines of defense that are implemented. Following proper safety procedures in the office will help your facility avoid the tragic circumstances of a fire.

Once a fire begins the first line of defense is usually a sprinkler system. Fire extinguishers are an effective way to stop the growth of a fire or to put it out altogether. There are different types of sprinkler systems but the one in most offices quenches class A fires with water. The heat sensors on the sprinkler system detect when the room has become to warm and it releases a valve. Sprinkler systems are not specifically designed to put fires out. They are designed to beat down the flames and keep them from spreading until help arrives.

Employees who are trained to deal with fires are the next line of defense. Their weapon is usually a fire extinguisher. They should be trained and ready to use the extinguishers in your office. There are many types of extinguishers but the most common use water, carbon dioxide and dry chemicals. These employees should be trained to know what type of extinguisher to use. The extinguisher needs to be compatible with the type of fire that needs to be put out. If its marked with "A, B & C" it will put out most every fire you come in contact with.

Employees should learn to use the PASS system with fire extinguishers - pull the pin, aim the nozzle, squeeze the trigger and sweep from side to side. The extinguisher will probably only last 15 seconds. If the fire is not out by then, leave the area and wait for professional help.

Some of the misconceptions about putting out a fire can be dangerous. For instance, never use a coat or a blanket to smother a fire. They will often ignite making the situation worse. Also, never beat down the flames as this fan the fire with oxygen causing it to flare up.

Preventing fires in the first place is the best way to fight them, if they start know the lines of defense in your office. Don't be part of one of the thousands of tragic fires that occur every year. Follow safety prevention guidelines and keep you and your coworkers safe.

A few years ago, I did quite a bit of research on the use of Hydrogen Generators to improve my vehicle's fuel efficiency. I was quite skeptical of the process of converting water into its basic elements, two parts Hydrogen and one part Oxygen, also known as HHO. Not the process, which is called Electrolysis, but the amount of electrical energy it will take to break the water down into its basic elements. Then to use those basic elements as fuel, which is now in a gaseous form, to replace the energy lost in the conversion process, plus provide additional energy to power a vehicle. This is the big question. Does this process provide enough energy to improve a vehicle's fuel efficiency, per advertised claims, of 20, 40, and even 60%, or is it all a Cheat?

There are many claims out there, 35% here, 65% there, who do you believe, or do you? So I decided to put it to the test. I purchased one of the simple DIY kits, for the ebook and 0 for the two cell kit. It took me a few days to read over the 132 page ebook, which was how long it took to receive the two cell Hydrogen Generator kit. It took me most of the week to put the kits together, working in the evenings after work. Then on the weekend I installed the HHO Cells into my 2003 Grand Marquis with a 4.6L V-8 engine. I installed the HHO Cells behind the car's front grille, which made it easy to check the water level without having to lift the hood. After several trips to the hardware store to get the proper fittings and hoses I had everything ready to go.

Something I hadn't seen in any of the advertisements or reports and didn't know until I received my ebook, is that a condenser is needed. You see, when the Hydrogen and Oxygen goes through the combustion chamber some of the unburned gases convert back into water and gets blown by the pistons into the crank case or oil pan. Now that's not a good place for water. Water causes rust and corrosion. So, where the vacuum hose comes out of the top of the rocker arm cover and goes into the intake manifold, I pulled that hose and run a new hose form the rocker arm cover to a compressor filter, (which became my condenser). Mount the condenser in front of the car radiator for maximum cooling and then run another hose back to the intake manifold completing the vacuum line feed with an inline condenser. Then, when the engine gets warm, the hot oil will steam off the water and it will be cooled and collect in the condenser. You will need to empty the condensed ever now and then. It works best to empty out the condenser every time you need to add water to your HHO Cells, usually about every 1000 miles.

When I first installed my DIY-HHO Generator I connected one cell's HHO supply line to the condenser return line, which goes back to the intake manifold and the other cell's supply line to air intake just after the air filter. With this arrangement, I went from 18-19 MPG to about 21 MPG. That was a 16% increase in MPG. After about an hour of highway driving I noticed a change. The car became more sluggish, the Check Engine light came on and my MPG dropped back to 18 MPG.

After a bit more reading and research, I found a quick fix to the problem. The problem was with the introduction of the HHO gases, which made the gasoline burning more efficiently and leaner. With a leaner fuel mixture the exhaust temperatures were higher and the Engine management Computer Unit, ECU didn't like the higher temperatures. The ECU thought something was wrong with the Oxygen or O2 sensors and reset the air/fuel mixture to the factory's default setting of 14.7:1.

Let me explain a little of what I learned about O2 sensor in general, then I will tell you the solution to the problem. Anyway, most O2 sensors operate on a temperature difference between the atmospheric or outside air temperature and the internal exhaust temperatures. This difference is what creates the 0.2 volts to 0.8 volts produced by the sensors. When the exhaust temperatures are very hot, the sensor produces 0.2V, which tells the ECU the air/fuel mixture is running very lean, and when the exhaust temperatures are cooler, the sensor produces 0.8V, which tells the ECU the air/fuel mixture is very rich. The ECU wants to maintain an ideal 0.45 voltage by adjusting the air/fuel mixture.

The solution I found was to wrap several layers of aluminum foil around the O2 sensors. This raises the entire temperature range on the sensors. So with the HHO gas leaning out the air/gas mixture and creating higher exhaust temperatures, the ECU would think this higher temperature was normal. Anyway, after applying several layers of aluminum foil around the sensors, my MPG went up to 26 MPG, that's a 45% increase in fuel efficiency. I was excited!

Something I found most people don't realize or don't talk about is that the HHO Cells create an oxygen rich atmosphere in the intake manifold. This is quite simple, the more oxygen, better the fuel burn, less fuel needed to do the same work, result is more miles per gallon.

After a few weeks went by, I noticed that the HHO cell which went to the intake manifold was using more water than the one going to the air intake. I thought it might be the way the electrical was connected. So, I switched the positive and negative wires. That didn't make any difference. So, I disconnected the HHO line to the air intake and tied the two cells together, both feeding into the intake manifold. Guess what, my MPG went up to 28 MPG. That is better than a 50% increase in my fuel efficiency. This Definitely made me Happy!

So, to answer the question; A cheat or do they really work? This HHO unit definitely works. I'm getting 10 more miles out of every gallon of over priced gas I purchase.

Like I said, I chose an HHO design that was simple and quite inexpensive. It consists of two wide mouth mason jars with plastic lids, four pieces of Plexiglas about 2-1/8 inches X 5-3/4 inches X 3/16 inch thick with a slot half way up the middle of each piece lengthwise, so, two can be slipped together to form an X shape. The X shapes are glued together and then glued to the inside of the plastic lids. Then two ¼ inch holes are drilled into the plastics lids for the electrical connection screws. You will need four pieces of 0.032 inch thick Stainless Steel Wire each about 52 inches long. Wrap a wire around the connection screws at the wire's mid-point and then twist it to make a single electrode. Once the wires are twisted, insert the screw with the twisted wire through the ¼ inch hole in the lid and wrap the wire around the Plexiglas X mandrel at a ¾ inch spiral pitch and tie it off at the bottom of the Plexiglas mandrel. Then add the second screw and do the same with the second twisted wire, again tying it off at the bottom of the Plexiglas mandrel. The two wires should now be spaced at about 3/8 of an inch apart. Do the same for the second HHO cell. Now add two more holes in the plastic lids, one for the adjustable air vent and the other for a tube fitting to draw off the HHO gas. Glue the adjustable air vent and the tube fitting to the lid keeping things air tight. Again, do the same to the second HHO Cell. That is just about all there is to making very simple HHO Cells. Now you can mount the HHO Cells in any available space in the engine compartment or as I mentioned before, I mounted them behind the front grille so I can look through the grille to keep an eye on the water levels. Then I connected all the hoses and fittings into the vehicle as I described earlier.

Some important points that need to be mentioned;

• The HHO line going into the intake manifold should have a one way valve installed on it. This is a safety factor just in case the engine should ever backfire. Engines with carburetors are more prone to this problem than fuel injected engines.

• The HHO electrical system needs to have a 30 amp inline fuse. What I did was to run a low amp electrical line to a 12 volt source which was on only when the ignition was turned on (which was easy to find under the hood) to activate a relay. Then I put the 30 amp fuse between the battery and the relay, and ran a power line from the relay to the HHO Cells. I found this was much easer to do than trying to find a 30 amp ignition key activated source.

• Instead of wrapping several layers of foil around your O2 sensors, they have recently developed several alternative systems to control the O2 sensor's output to the ECU. One is extremely simple, just plug it into your ECU and it does all the tweaking for you to achieve the engines optima efficiency.

• If you are in an area that receives freezing temperatures, you will need to add Ethyl Glycol to your electrolyte (water with baking soda) when it starts to get below freezing. To make this easy, just pick-up some cold weather windshield washing fluid (usually the blue stuff) that has Ethyl Glycol in it and mix it with your electrolyte about half and half. The HHO production will be reduced some, but at least the Cells won't freeze up.

One drawback I found with the wire wound HHO Cells is after about 2-1/2 years the wires start to dissolve and/or corrode. When this happens you will find the plastic lid is broken out all round the top edge. The first time this happened, I had no idea what had happened. Then about three months later my second cell did the same thing. After a bit of investigative reasoning, I believe I discovered what happened. When the wires get real thin in places and the water level drops below a thinned area, there is still current being drawn through the wires and it lights up like a light bulb filament, which ignites the hydrogen which is still being generated in the cell, which in turn blows the plastic lids and burns out the wire. I found no other damage, just broken lids and broken wires. I replaced the plastic lids and rewound the wires and I was back in business. Because of this, I would suggest looking for HHO Cells which are made with stainless steel plates instead of the wires. The wires work great, but they have a limited life of only 2 to 3 years.

I hope my experience and this information is of some benefit to you.

Thank you

Most of modern researchers have differed with previous believe that fatigue is consequent to an accumulation of lactic acid in the muscles. Actually lactate stops muscles' fatigue by keeping them fully responsive to various nerve signals.

Muscles are kept agile and strong by constant provision of oxygen and nutrients. Disturbance of ion homeostasis and demands placed on the muscles is what determines performance during an exercise during intense workouts. Each and every contraction of muscles constitutes an action that essentially activates voltage sensors in the muscles and thereby releases Ca2+ ions from sarcoplasmic reticulum contained within muscle fibers. Such an action triggers ion changes like Na influx during depolarization phase or K influx during repolarization phase.

This explains why muscle fatigue develops gradually with exercise intensity and length. CL- ions diffuse into the sarcoplasm to aid the repolarization phase. When a body builder places demanding contractions in the muscles, ion pumps responsible for maintaining homeostasis or simply balance of these ions are automatically inactivated thereby triggering ionic disturbances. The net result is cellular membrane's depolarization coming out to the body builder as muscle weakness. This general weakness and fragility of muscles is what we can accurately identify as muscle fatigue.

Intense and prolonged exercises usually bring about a severe imbalance of ions in muscles and sometimes a total collapse of body homeostasis. These are what cause athletes to collapse after the final lap, having put maximal demands to muscle contraction potential in the last lap.

But fatigue is quickened and perhaps triggered by insufficient supply of oxygen and nutrients in the muscle tissues. This explains why a short distance athlete who totally depletes oxygen supply and rides the lungs to decimal absorption of the vital gas during the finishing distance of a race while also putting maximal output of energy from muscles faster than the muscle can convert through metabolism, ends up collapsing at the end or close to the end of a race. Yet after a few minutes in which he or she lowers the breathing rate and thereby improves oxygen absorption and places no further energy demands on the muscles, recovers within minutes.

The brain also adjusts automatically the power output of muscles to ensure that even in intense workouts, the energy demands placed on muscles is both safe and well catered for by replacement mechanisms. In this, the brain acts as a central regulator of muscle performance. In body building, the neural calculations try to regulate and thereby balance the energy demands of exercises, the level of strain, duration of the workout during which there is a continuous exertion of energy and also the metabolism rate and state in the body builder's muscle system.

This means that muscle fatigue is not just caused by mechanical failure the muscles (previously referred to as peripheral fatigue). Rather, fatigue develops once the central regulator determines that available resources in energy, including that produced in continuous metabolism is far by exceeded by expended energy and any further demands of energy fro the muscles given the particular intensity of exercise, could drive muscles into danger limits.

Fatigue is not a bad thing at all when conceived in this light. Actually it is just a signal that indicates certain brain signals to the muscles. By using fatigue as an indicator of exhaustion and calling the body builder to quit, the brain thereby protects the brain homeostasis and also ensures that regular exercises do not go as far as exhausting emergency reserves of energy.

Gas log fireplaces are those that not only give the illusion of burning wood, they also produce some of the heat that would be expected out of a "real fireplace." These creations come in two basic styles and which one to get will depend a lot of on personal choice.

Gas log fireplaces can be designed to require outdoor venting to ensure that carbon monoxide is removed from a room. They can also come in a form that burns a special gas log that doesn't need venting at all. The kind of fireplace chosen will likely depend on budgeting and the ability to have venting added to a home or apartment. When venting isn't possible for a gas log fireplace, the unvented version can work quite well.

There are some things buyers of unvented gas log fireplaces should know and consider. They include:

* Heat: Gas logs that don't require a venting system must be burned in a fireplace designed to handle them. The heat produced will be incredibly hot to ensure that most of the carbon monoxide is burned up rather than released into a room. Using the wrong kind of logs can be an issue.

* Sensors: A gas log fireplace that is meant to burn logs without a ventilation system should have an Oxygen Depletion Sensor or the room should have a carbon sensor installed. The ODS is the preferred choice because it is built into the gas log fireplace and will shut off the gas supply before a room's oxygen level reaches the danger point.

* Housing: Unvented gas log fireplaces will require a special location in a house. These might not be as portable as electrical versions, but safety should be a number one concern. To properly install an unvented system, it should be contained in a masonry fireplace or even in a firebox that can be quite decorative.

* Safety: Since unvented logs tend to produce a whole lot of heat, there are some rules for working these fireplaces to ensure maximum safety. The doors on the fireplace are generally required to be kept open, but a grate should be in place to make sure no one gets injured. Small children should be kept away from the fireplaces as should anything that might combust.

It is never a good idea to use gas log fireplaces, vented or unvented, over night. Make sure everything is turned off and extinguished before turning in for the evening. Also, it can be smart to keep a window slightly open as the logs are burning.

* Condensation: This is a byproduct of using gas log fireplaces. Vented fireplaces will take the moisture outside, but those that work without a dedicated vent generally don't.

Gas log fireplaces offer a way for almost anyone to enjoy the sights and warmth of a burning fire. They do require some special attention in regard to safety, however. Whether it's a vented version that's desired or an unvented model, make sure they are installed and used correctly to avoid dangers that can go along with their use.

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Review - Denso 234-4077 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

• Designed to detect the amount of oxygen in the exhaust system
• Constructed from high quality material
• Features double protection layer, aluminum oxide trap layer, PTFE filter and stainless steel housing
• Manufactured with precision to meet OE standards
• Easy installation

For More Information :

Mercedes always had a penchant for using manifold vacuum as a control device for various ancillary systems. As elegant as that may be, it does result in an engine compartment with a multitude of vacuum lines and connections, on top of an already-complicated fuel injection and air-management system. If that myriad of components has never been renewed on a 20-year-old car, there will almost certainly be leaks, and they can be tricky to track down.

Vacuum Leak Symptoms

Major vacuum leaks will make the engine very rough or lumpy at idle as the optimal air-fuel (A/F) ratio is compromised by the intake of unmetered air. The car may still drive reasonably well, because the relative magnitude of the leak becomes much less significant as the throttle opens and the engine draws in the large amounts of air it needs for combustion under load. Idle speed may also be elevated, as the vacuum leak frustrates the efforts of the idle-control system to regulate the amount of air admitted to the intake ports.

The economy gauge in the instrument cluster should be pegged left at idle (unless in gear with the A/C on). But this gauge is not accurate enough for proper diagnosis. We really want to connect a hand-held vacuum gauge to the intake manifold. The best place to do this is at the back of the manifold on the passenger side, where the grey line to the interior accessories takes its feed. A healthy engine at idle, according to most textbooks, should indicate 17-22 in/Hg of vacuum; in the case of a V-8 Mercedes 126, we should be seeing around 20. A lower number can indicate many things, including improper ignition timing and generally poor engine condition. But if the engine is otherwise sound, vacuum leaks will be noticeable here.

Best Detection Method

One way to find vacuum leaks is with an automotive stethoscope. You may be able to actually hear the intake of false air. But the best way is to use your car's oxygen senor as a diagnostic aid. The oxygen sensor on the early V-8's is a single wire device, sending a voltage close to 1.0 when the A/F ratio is very rich and close to 0.0 when the mixture is very lean. By connecting the sensor's output wire through a voltmeter to battery ground, we can use it to test for vacuum leaks. To do this:

Get the sensor HOT by driving the car. Test the sensor's lean response by creating a massive vacuum leak. Disconnect the grey line at the back of the manifold, where you hooked up your vacuum gauge. Test the sensor's rich response by spraying carb cleaner into the intake. (The air cleaner needs to be off for this work.) If the sensor is not responding correctly, replace it. It is vital for proper mixture control and fuel economy. If the sensor is working, test for vacuum leaks by spraying small amounts of carb cleaner around suspected leak areas, such as fuel injector seals and breather hoses. If you see a brief spike in the voltage, you've found a problem area. Don't go crazy with the carb cleaner: it is hostile to old rubber.

Unfortunately, not all of the possible culprits can be reached with this procedure. The rubber "donuts" between the upper- and lower-halves of the intake manifold are almost impossible to test. But usually, some combination of this procedure plus temporarily isolating vacuum-powered accessories will expose the leak.

Finally, a word on a vacuum leak location that is easily overlooked, but which can be very serious if allowed to get too far. The vacuum line from the back of the intake plenum to the brake booster is crucial for brake performance; these cars are very difficult to stop without servo assistance. The line itself is easy to inspect for cracks, but it's hard to verify the integrity of the check valve in the line. The valve can look fine from a distance, but hairline cracks may be developing right at that point where the thick tubing mates with the valve. Try flexing this area with the engine running and see if your idle changes, and give it the carb cleaner spritz test, too. New lines, including the check valve, are -50 and worth replacing for peace of mind if the original is still on there. Don't ask me how I know...!

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Review - Denso 234-4095 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

• Designed to detect the amount of oxygen in the exhaust system
• Constructed from high quality material
• Features double protection layer, aluminum oxide trap layer, PTFE filter and stainless steel housing
• Manufactured with precision to meet OE standards
• Easy installation

For More Information :

A vent free gas fireplace can be another source of heat in your home. If you do not have a traditional fireplace and do not want to have one installed then these are a good option for you instead. As the name implies, there is no wood to burn with one of these types because your fuel is gas. You do require a natural gas line installed to deliver the gas from the tank in your home to the fireplace itself.

Due to some safety precautions, vent free gas fireplaces are not legal in all states. Thus, before you have one installed, make sure they are legal where you live. Most modern styles of these fireplaces come with oxygen sensors that measure the levels of oxygen near the fireplace. If the oxygen has depleted to a certain level it automatically shuts off the gas. This is a preventative measure to protect against carbon monoxide poisoning. Regardless of the safety features installed, they are still banned in some areas of the United States.

Vent free gas fireplaces come in different shapes, sizes and styles. The different sizes give out different amounts of output as well. If you have a small room then installed a small unit is what you should do. If you have a larger room then you would be better off installing a larger fireplace so that it will heat the entire room. These particular heating units use up the oxygen in a room, thus a small room will have less oxygen to begin with, you do not want this to happen.

Vent free gas fireplaces come with fake logs to give the appearance of being an actual wood burning fireplace. The better models have specially designed burners that provide enough air so the gas combusts correctly thus producing less carbon monoxide. In some cases when there is too much heat produced, it can cause an excess of moisture in a room, which can lead to problems with mold and mildew. This condensation will form on colder surfaces. If installed and used properly, then this style of fireplace can add to the overall décor of your home. Just be sure to follow the safety regulations and you will be satisfied with your new home heating device.